![[Laser cut and engrave] Danforth Anchor scale model](https://image-res.atomm.com/resource/xtool/community/attachment/xtool-community/2036e7fa-7eb3-493d-b203-a6ab59f8e151.png?x-oss-process=image/resize,m_fill,w_160,h_120,limit_0/interlace,1/format,webp/auto-orient,1)
![[Laser cut and engrave] Danforth Anchor scale model](https://image-res.atomm.com/resource/xtool/community/attachment/xtool-community/9789aa0a-2d84-4448-ab3f-2d36986e5010.jpg?x-oss-process=image/resize,m_fill,w_160,h_120,limit_0/interlace,1/format,webp/auto-orient,1)
![[Laser cut and engrave] Danforth Anchor scale model](https://image-res.atomm.com/resource/xtool/community/attachment/xtool-community/f5251527-fd2f-46bc-96d9-16cf45f187cc.jpg?x-oss-process=image/resize,m_fill,w_160,h_120,limit_0/interlace,1/format,webp/auto-orient,1)
Danforth Anchor scale model



Information
This is a scale model of a Danforth type anchor, one of the most popular and useful small boat anchors, particularly excelling in sandy bottoms.
I've owned a variety of these anchors myself over the years, and still keep one as my backup. It stows very conveniently as far as anchors go, making it a great choice for a second anchor. This model articulates exactly like the real thing. I've added a picture of my smallest real danforth snug in its locker as a bonus.
This one is scaled to make with 1/16" basswood or basswood plywood, but can be scaled up or down to fit any thickness of material. (I'm planning on making a really tiny one of out of .040 cardstock to use as a anchor for a scale model sailboat I've been building.) Check the "Tab generation" slider to keep the pieces together before assembly if you want to make it into a kit card.
Instruction
Step1: Glue up shank and stock

Glue the two halves of the shank together, making sure the pivot hole is aligned and free of glue squeeze-out.
The stock is a 3-piece construction. Align the side pieces as seen in the picture: each side uses every other through-hole for alignment. Make sure that you carefully clean up all glue-squeeze-out in the corners to prepare for the next step.
Set these assemblies aside to dry before moving on.
Step2: thread the first plate

Take a look at the picture to make sure you are threading this plate in the correct alignment with the locating tabs for the next step.
Step3: build first fluke

Assemble and glue one side of the flukes to the stock. The stiffening flange is purposefully slightly angled back from the bottom plate that you threaded on first. That plate should be square and perpendicular to the cruciform stock, but the fluke and flange are not.
Let the glue dry before heading to the next step.
Step4: pivoting shank and second plate

Thread these components on to the stock, making sure the shank can swing freely.
Step5
Glue on the second fluke and flange, and add the tripping palms. It may be helpful to add these parts all in the same step so that you can get them all aligned while the glue is soft. Make sure not to glue the shank in place accidently with glue squeeze-out!
Step6: add the spacers


Add the spacers to limit the shank from rattling. You can fine-tune these spacers for the perfect fit by rubbing them on a little bit of sandpaper flat on your bench.
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