I modified and fine-tuned the design files using CorelDraw. I've included the CorelDraw design file for you. With the new version of Xtool Creative Space which allows node editing, adjustments probably could be done directly in XCS. (I haven't tried this yet).

Depending on what material you're using, you'll probably need to adjust the size of the slots and tabs to compensate for the correct thickness of your material. Don't forget to allow for the “kerf” or thickness of your laser beam that is cutting away material. 

1. Conduct a cutting test on your material to confirm that the laser cuts through it cleanly.
    
2. Proceed to cut each of the pieces.
    
3. Given the intricate nature of the cuts, you may need to assist in removing the small cutout pieces; an old dentist's probe is an excellent tool for this task.
    
4. Exercise EXTREME CAUTION when handling MDF, as it is highly brittle and fragile, especially when dealing with fine details that can easily cause the MDF to break or separate.
    
5. If you don't plan to paint your finished box, you'll probably need to cleanup any scorch marks left by the laser. Using fine grit sandpaper on MDF works great.

1. Once all pieces have been cut, do a dry assemble of your box without glue. This insures everything is fitting together correctly, and you'll learn any special methods of assembly. Assembling the lid can be a little tricky. You may need to make some corrections in the design of a few pieces and re-cut them.
    
2. Again, be VERY CAREFUL with the MDF in assembly. Don't force the pieces together, or you'll break the MDF easily (ask me how I know).
    
3. When satisfied of your dry assembly, carefully take it apart and assemble again. This time, use glue very sparingly. Be careful to NOT glue the hinged lid to the base (see photo).
    
4. When dry, leave the box natural, paint, or stain as you prefer.