f you have tried some of my other projects, you know that I like to create making notes as I go. I usually include a lot of photos and instructions. If you are interested in the creation of the project itself, follow step 2 and 3. If you are just interested in the assembly, download the file and use Step 4. Step 5 is how to use the jig and last step is just a Final Thoughts.

Each step will refer to photos by numbers. Each photo has a number in it so you know which one is the correct one. 

These instructions are also assuming you are familiar with XCS 2.0 as it was a project built entirely in that program. 

I created a rectangle 7" wide by 6.375" high. (See photo 1) I then created another rectangle the width of the F1 base which is 5.813"x6.375". (See photo 2) I selected both the rectangles and used the horizontal and vertical align feature to center the smaller of the two within the larger. NOTE: It helps to change the color of the smaller to something other than the main color you use. (See photo 3) This smaller rectangle is used as a measure guide and will be deleted later. I create a smaller rectangle .26" wide and 2" high. (See photo 4) and then copy it. I line one of these along the left side of the smaller of the original two rectangles and shift it away from the edge so that it lands somewhat center of the thin area on the right. Then I align the 2nd one on the right side so that it snaps to the same position. (See photo 5) Subtract these two rectangles from the larger using the subtract function. This will create "holes". Copy and paste the copy to one side so you should have two identical ones (See photo 6) Put one aside for the next step. Next, create a rectangle 1"x.25" and copy and paste it three times. You should have a total of 4 copies. (See photo 22) Put two to the side. Take 2 and place one in each of the bottom corners of the larger rectangle so it lines up Hint: Use align left and bottom and then align right and bottom (See photo 21 and 25) Subtract these rectangles so that you have a cut out at the bottom of each corner. (See photo 26) Next I create a rectangle 7"x.328" (see photo 20) I then take the other two of the smaller rectangles that were put to the side and place those on the top of the 7" rectangle at either corner. Be sure they overlap just a hair. (See photo 23) I unite the three rectangles and end up with a rectangle that has two tabs facing up. (See photo 24) 
 

I take the larger rectangle from Step 1 that we put to the side. That yellow rectangle should be lined up in the center if done correctly. (See photo 8) Subtract that rectangle from the larger rectangle and you will end up with a U shaped piece that has tab holes on either side (see photo 9) We wante to actually create a window with this piece so line up a rectangle along the top and bottom that leaves a view area approximately 1.5" to 2" high. The width will stay the width between the arms of the U. After uniting these rectangles, you should have a piece that looks like the photo (see photo 11) NOTE: I had made a change to the tab holes on this rectangle so that they were 1" instead of 2". I forgot to take screenshots. Be sure to change the tab holes to this size by adding a 1" rectangle over top of the tab holes and uniting it with the larger rectangle.
 

As far as steps are concerned, this is fairly straight forward but will require you know the width of the collars you are engraving. The ones I use are maxed at 1". So that means I need a pair of hold down arms with a 1" opening. I create a 2"x.75" rectangle. I create another rectangle 1"x.26". I center the smaller rectangle on one side of the larger and make sure it overlaps just slightly. Then I unite the two. (See photo 14 and 15). I create another rectangle at 1" x1" (See photo 16) I center this on the opposite side of from the tab I created, overlapping by .5" (I made the 1"x1" rectangle so it would center easy- See photo 17) Subtract this rectangle from your tabbed rectangle. Copy the result and paste it so now you have two of the same design. (See photo 18)
For craft shows, and to provide me a reminder since sometimes shows can get hectic and you don't want to damage a pricey item, I like to give my self little nudges. I type in "Did you focus?" above and below the window. Since I will be using this jig for just one item, my leather dog collars, I also put my power speed and LPI (See photo 19)

I then cut my pieces using the setting shown above. I used one sheet of 12x19 birch 3mm in size and had a good piece left over. The engrave power may have been a bit too high as you can see in the finished photos (plus I didn't mask) but I was not going for looks in this project. Just functionality.
 

Again, I forgot to take photos of the assembly. However, it is fairly simple to do. (See photos 29 and 30) Take part A and glue it to part B with A being turned 90 degrees to part B. I like to use either Loctite Superglue Ultragel Control or Starbond Thick adhesive (especially useful projects with tabs as it is also a gap filler) Then take part C and insert the tab into the slot on part D. Glue this in and finally do the same on the other side of part D using the other part C. When done you will have two pieces. (See photos 32 and 33)
 

I like to place the collar in the jig first to be sure of a fit (see photo 31 and 34) Then I put the top plate with the collar into the bottom plate, again to check fit and be sure the legs of the top plate are entering the bottom plate for a good hold (see photo 35) Remove the collar and put the base plate against the bottom of the front of your F1 (See photo 36) and center it so the tab openings fall on either side of the bottom of your F1 (See photo 37) Put the top plate of the jig with the collar into the tab holes of the bottom plate. Make sure your view area in the window of the jig is where you want your engraving to go. (See photo 38.) Close your F1. The sides of the cover cover should catch on the top of the jig and help to hold down your collar straight. (See photo 39) Go about your engraving!
 

This was a simple and fun project to make. I found it something that proved to be very useful as dog collars are one of my highest requested items recently. Being able to hold down my collar straight and not having to worry about it shifting while closing my F1 was a great help. I may make adjustments in the future to allow for larger collars but for now, this works!

Thanks for trying this out and, as always, Happy Crafting!