Laser Cut Layered Wooden World Map Desk Decor

I had always loved creating things, be it in my woodshop, on paper, or digitally through art. This particular plan caught my eye and for a while I just looked at the plans and thought it over. I had never really tackled multilayered plans with any success before. It was a bit daunting to say the least. 

But I wanted to make it my own in some way. So I decided to make a few changes. This was a wonderful piece and I still wanted the original creator to see their work in it while trying to make it unique to me. 

It took several weeks and a lot of patience, but in the end, it made me feel really good about how it ended up. I used a lot of material (mainly due to mistakes) and time but when it was done…WOW! I loved it! I displayed it at my next event and it sold in less than an hour. What a feeling it gave me! What a thrill to know that this item that I spent so much time on was so wanted! 

I thank the original creator for this plan and want them to know that it empowered me to work with other multi layered projects. I am now working to develop my own multi layered art as well due to this particular project!

Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the assembly process but it is very straight forward and easy to do. 

I did this with the P2 and used 3mm (1/8") birch for the map and 6mm (¼") birch for the base. I used double sided adhesive to put the pieces together. I used 3m originally but have since changed to Dualtite as you get more for the money and it works just as well. I also decided to use 3 different shades of blue epoxy and then a clear epoxy on top. (More in step 6 about that). I did paint the layers as well but found it wasn't nescessary as the epoxy overwhelmed the paint colors.

If you use any other machine and/or material than what I list, you will need to adjust your settings to your tested specs.

There are 4 different colors associated with this. Red lines are cut lines, yellow lines are scored lines, blue areas are engraved and the green is for informantional and is set to ignore in XCS. 

While I used 3m double sided adhesive for this, you could use an adhesive like starbond thick adhesive instead. This will give you a little room to move your pieces around for a few seconds before fully adhereing to the layer beneath. 

Using the settings above, cut out your pieces. You should have 6 map layers, 2 base layers with a cutout in the center and four solid base layers.

You want to ensure that the singular circle border piece is sanded smooth. You may need to sand the other parts to remove overburn and if you do, do it lightly. 

HINT: The bottom layer and next to bottom layer will be under dark blue epoxy if you do use epoxy for this so overburn will not be really noticeable.

The bases will need to also be sanded, particularly the top piece which is one of the ones with the hole cut out. You should have two but they will stack ontop of each other. 

Before proceeding with this step, you need to decide if you will leave it bare, paint it or use epoxy. If you are using epoxy or leaving bare, you can proceed with this step. If you are painting, then you will want to paint the layers according to your desired colors PRIOR to following this step. 

Go layer by layer starting with the back piece. You want to put it together first to ensure you have everything lined up before removing the adhesive paper. When you are happy, lay the back piece flat and then put the next layer on slowly so as to ensure everything lines up. Once you are happy with the placement, press down firmly to sit the adhesive. Do the same with each layer until you have the circular border on.

HINT: Put together 2 pieces at a time. The back and layer 5, layer 3 an 4 and then layer 2 and the border. THEN put those together. This way if a mistake is made, and your layers don't line up correctly, you will only have two pieces to cut out instead of all the layers below it. 

You want to do this step AFTER the map is assembled as the map actually helps to assemble the top two pieces. Slide the top piece with the hold in the center onto the long tab at the base of the map and then peel the adhesive paper from it. Line up and add the second piece with the hole in the center onto the tab and then press these two pieces together. 

On your bottom four pieces it is important to note that these are 4 different sizes. Each one is slightly larger than the other. Line these pieces up with the largest on the bottom and then peel back the adhesive for the next layer and center it as closely as you can to the bottom and press it on. Repeat this for each of the other pieces.

OPTIONAL STEP: I took the four part base and sanded it to create an angled edge instead of a stepped appearance. This is completely and 100% optional but will require a power sander as doing it by hand will take forever.

Once I have by solid base, I peel the backing off the two pieces with holes int he center and then center that on the solid base and press it down.

I poured 4 different colored epoxies into this map. 3 were different shades of blue varying from very dark to very light. The last was a clear coat. 

If you decide to fill this with epoxy, the time on this project goes from about 90 minutes to up to 4 days. However, it will look amazing. 

When mixing epoxy, be mindful of air bubbles. If you have excessive air bubble after pouring, use a heat source such as a heat gun or hair dryer on high to remove the bubbles. (Heat gun is better but hair dryer or butane torch works in a pinch)

To do the epoxy, follow these steps.

1. Wrap the entire edge of the map in masking tape. Even though this is adhered together with adhesive, there could still be leaks out the sides. The masking tape will help keep the epoxy contained. 
2. Mix your darkest blue epoxy. Pour it in the engraved areas of the back piece and slightly above. Let this set until tacky or fully dry, about 24 hours in most cases will fully cure it. 
3. Mix your next blue and pour this atop the dark blue. It should be transparent enough to see the dark blue and the edges of the layers it coats. I usually pour this to just above the 3rd layer. Let set until tacky or fully cured.
4. Mix your lightest blue and pour this until it coats to the edge of the fifth layer. Try not to let it come onto the fifth layer much. Let set until tacky or fully cured.
5. Mix a clear epoxy and pour until it comes up to the very edge of the border layer. If it comes over the top, that is okay, just don't let it pour over. This layer must fully cure before proceding to the last step.
6. When the last epoxy is fully cured, sand it smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. It will look scratched but that is easily fixed. Make sure there are no high places and if there are, sand it down to where the top layer is completely smooth and level. Lay your piece flat and take a very tiny bit of clear epoxy and pour it on. You don't need much, just a tiny bit. Using a gloved hand, spread it over the sanded area. You should see the scratches disappear and your map appear through. If you poured too much and the epoxy goes over the sides, no worries, that is easily fixed as well. Wipe it away and then when the last epoxy layer you just put on is fully cured, remove the tape from around the edges and that should help remove any small drips you have. 

HINT: If you have a lot  of drips and it spread to the back, no worries there. Pull your tape off as best as possible and then sand the edge of your map all the way around and then the back until the epoxy is removed completely.

Put a liberal amount of glue into the slot on the base and then place the large tab of your map within that slot. Hold it firm for a few moments and let the glue take hold. If using regular glue and not an adhesive like Starbond thick, you may need something to hold your map upright while it dries. 

Once the initial glue is set, run a bead of glue along where the tab of the map enters the base. 

You are all finished! 

As I stated in the start, this piece inspired me to do other multilayered pieces. I have also started to create some of my own but have so far, not gotten one that I though was good enough to let others use yet (Except my ornaments). If you like this piece, check out the orignal creator and his creations at: 

https://www.atomm.com/profile/62736

If you like my work here, check out my other designs at: 

https://www.atomm.com/profile/15190?utm_source=Social_Share 

I have loads of plans available both free and premium (More free than premium) and would love to hear what you think of my other projects. I would also love is some were remixed. Interested to see what others do with ones I have created. 

Drop me a comment and let me know what you think of this plan.

Happy Crafting!