Oversized Cribbage Board

This step is for creating the template for drilling the oversized ¼" holes for the pegs to go in. The full length does not fit in the M1 so I cut it up into 3 pieces. You can score the yellow lines to easily line up the pieces or to save time mark with a pencil 1, 2 & 3 on each piece to remember order and orientation. The yellow score lines are for later use. Cut out the holes for the template on 12"x12" 6mm plywood. Once all 3 templates are cut out you can save them for later use.

This step requires removing the baseplate and can take a little finesse. You should start by marking the blank area next to the scoring area on the main board as pictured. The template should fit right in the middle/center of the board. Next start by removing the baseplate. Once removed you can lift the whole machine up and slide the board under it and rest the machine on the board. Make sure the lines and board are straight and centered. You may need to use other wood and things to keep the board from tipping and to stable the engraver and make sure the engraver is flat. The deign is to be engraved with 5 passes and needs to be to left of the holes in the blank area of the main board. This is where you can use the Great Lakes design or your own. Make sure the design is left of the scoring holes and does not touch the edges.

After engraving, clean the surface by gently wiping it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits to remove dust, residue, or oils. You can also use a lightly dampened cloth with water. Avoid soaking the material, and allow the surface to dry completely before proceeding. 

When mixing a 2-part epoxy, read your brand’s instructions, as ratios and working times vary. Work in a ventilated area with gloves and eye protection. Measure resin and hardener accurately, usually 1:1 by volume, and mix pigment into the resin first if desired. Combine both parts in a clean cup and stir slowly, scraping sides and bottom until streak-free. Before pouring, create a dam around the area to contain the epoxy using a high-quality, non-porous tape such as packing tape or Tyvek tape, pressing it firmly to prevent leaks. For irregular shapes or thicker barriers, a removable silicone dam can also be used to control the flow. Pour the epoxy carefully onto the engraving applying it promptly within its working time and ensuring it stays within the dam until fully cured.

After the epoxy has fully cured, begin sanding to make it level with the surrounding wood. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper, around 80 to 120 grit, using a sanding block or orbital sander to carefully even out the epoxy without removing too much wood. Check your progress frequently to ensure the epoxy surface becomes flush with the wood. Once level, make sure it has a seamless surface. Finally, wipe away all sanding dust with a damp or tack cloth before applying the template. 

Set the drill press’s depth stop to 0.75 inches by adjusting the collar or stop rod on the quill. Secure your workpiece firmly on the drill press table with clamps or a vise to prevent movement. Position the workpiece according to your template, ensuring the drill bit aligns precisely with the marked hole location. Install a 1/4-inch drill bit into the chuck. Turn on the drill press and lower the bit slowly into the workpiece, stopping automatically when the depth stop engages at 0.75 inches. If your drill press lacks a depth stop, wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit at the 0.75-inch mark as a visual guide, and carefully stop drilling when the tape reaches the surface. Always wear safety glasses and maintain a steady feed rate for clean, accurate holes. I recommend a forstner bit for the least amount of tear out.

Begin by routing the edges using a router fitted with a round-over bit to create a smooth, rounded profile. Secure your workpiece firmly and guide the router steadily along the edges, keeping the base flat against the surface to ensure an even cut. After routing, start sanding with medium grit sandpaper such as 120 grit to smooth any rough areas. Progress through finer grits 180, 220, and finish with 320 grit or higher, sanding evenly and thoroughly for a smooth polished surface. Be sure to remove dust between grits and lightly sand the routed edges to blend them seamlessly with the flat surfaces.

Optional step is to score the cribbage numbers into the board by moving the board several times while the base plate is removed. Start by taking one yellow rectangle and deleting the rest, we will use the other ones later. I started by lining up the rectangle as shown in the template. Keep juggling between the computer and the machine making sure everything is lined up. The framing light should line up in the middle of the holes and should stop right at the top of the holes. You can use the camera to put the rectangle in the right area, it does not line up correctly on the camera. The only way to know for sure that it is lined up is when the framing light starts as shown in the picture. It will move past the next set of holes on the right but will line up perfectly on the left side, basically as long as the light starts at the top of the holes and lines up in the middle of the left holes you are good. When you are lined up you can remove the outer rectangle and score just the numbers. Once one is done move on the the next set of number and repeat. 

To clean the board, start by wiping the surface gently with a cloth dampened in mineral spirits to remove oils, dirt, and residues or a light damp cloth. After wiping, allow the surface to air dry completely. "Optional" then, use an air compressor with a clean nozzle to blow away any remaining dust from crevices. Ensure the board is fully clean and dry before finishing or further work.

This is the last step. You can buy Cribbage pegs that will fit 1/4th holes from specialty cribbage sites or from Etsy.  

The stand was modified with a logo and cut out on 3mm plywood. The bag is an original design not for use and it was created using Siser heat transfer vinyl and it was cut using the blade on the m1 Xtool and I used a muslin bag from Michaels. I use the bags to hold all the cards and pegs I bought online.

You can add feet to the final board if desired. Just make sure it does not go through the holes on the top. Space them in the empty areas where there are no holes on the corners.

For the handles, I used the a gate handle from home depot and the live edge boards I made my own leather handles, you can use either or. I started out by spacing it evenly on the edge where the design is so the drill does go through any holes. Mark the handles for drilling. I pre drilled where the screws are going to go with a very small drill bit.  When I was adding the screw I did it by hand rather than using a drill so the board had less chance of cracking. Depending on your leather size you may need to change your settings. You should do some test to see what cutting/Engraving settings work for you.