The plans are color coded:

Purple: Acrylic Cut

Green: Score

Red: Wood Cut

Blue: Wood engrave

Orange: Wood Score

Yellow: Project notes with “Outbound” set to off.

This project was made with the P2, a C02 machine. While you can cut/engrave the wood portions with regular diode lasers, the clear acrylic cuts will require a C02 machine.

Speaking of Acrylic, I used 1/8" clear acrylic, but you could use 1/16" if you have it available. Be aware, you may need a thin piece of cardboard or heavy construction paper behind your photos to help keep the pictures in place if you do.

The wood used for this was EcoBirch 3mm (1.8") from Smokey Hill Designs and the plans will follow as though you are using that wood. You can use other woods but may need to adjust the settings of your machine to accomodate the different wood. If using other wood types, you may also need to sand away burn marks/overburn and you will want to do so with a light hand so as not to make engraves look uneven. 

HINT: When using EcoBirch and superglue, it helps to score a grid where the two pieces will glue together to aide in the adhesion. 

If using EcoBirch, do keep in mind that moisture from wiping the wood down to clean away burn marks/overburn can cause it to swell slightly so the fits may not be very easy, particularly on the boxes. 

I highly recommend 3m 468mp adhesive as this will make assembly of the frames easier and cleaner. However, superglue can be used, just use it very sparingly on the acrylic and score the part of the acrylic lightly with a hobby knife to help the glue create a good and solid hold. The parts you score will not be seen as it will be hidden by the frame. (More on this in the step about frame assembly).

This does not mean you will not use superglue at all. Even with the 3m 468mp, you will still need superglue for the boxes. 

Using the settings above, cut your acrylic and wood. Keep in mind, setting 1 (Cut setting) is the same for both wood and acrylic. 

Make sure to type in the new childs name and, if desired, things like date of birth, weight, length, time of birth, city of birth, etc on the box top before processing.

Before cutting the half circles, be sure to put 3m 468mp adhesive on both sides. This is very important in helping with the assembly. 

Before cutting the 1/8" Scrap Wood Guide, note the word scrap. If you have scrap wood 1/8" that can accomodate these, use that rather than your good wood as it will only be used during assembly of the frames and ornament and unless you make another one, will most likely not use it again.

 Once you have cut, engraved and scored your pieces, lay them out. You should have:

1 - Large Box Bottom

1 - Large Box Top with baby information

2 - Large Box Sides (has hole in one cornerof each)

1 - Large Box Back

1 - Large Box Front (has a cutout in the center along the edge)

1 - Small Box Bottom

1 - Small Box Top with “My Baby Teefs” egraved

2 - Small Box Sides (has hole in one corner of each)

1 - Small Box Back

1 - Small Box Front (has a cutout in the center along the edge)

7 - Frames (1 for each year 1-5, “Welcome Little One”, and “My First Christmas” Ornament)

7 - Frame Backs (has an oval cutout in the center)

7 - Half Circles (should have 3m 468mp on both sides)

6 - Kickstand Legs

12 - Kickstand Hinge Pieces

7 - Acrylic “circles” for the frames (These are not circles, but instead has a circled end and curved top)

1 - Acrylic “circle” with scored circle in the center

3 - scrap parts used to assemble the frames

There should be a total of 62 pieces in all.

Once you have all the parts laid out and you verify you have everything, proceed to the next step.

IMPORTANT: DRY FIT YOUR BOXES BEFORE FINAL GLUED ASSEMBLY. 

The two boxes are essentially assemble the exact same.

First lay out the bottom of the box. Lay out the back and one side so that they are in the correct position in relation to the tabs of the bottom. Run a bead of glue along the tabs of the connecting tabs (don't forget the side tabs). Connect the back and the one side to the bottom. Here you can put in the top into the hole and then glue on the other side. Then put the glue along all the tabs for the front piece and connect it. Be sure to lever the top piece out of the way before putting on the front piece of the box. 

Once that is done, leave it sit for a few moments to fully cure the glue and then lever the lid back and forth to ensure easy movement. Also, even though it is dry, once you have move the lid back and forth, leave it open to allow air to reach the interior of the box to ensure total curing while you assemble the remainder of the project.

Again, these steps are essentially the same for both the large box and the small box. 

The frame guide is 3 pieces that assist in the assembly of the frames and ornament. It is extremely usefully in ensuring everything lines up correctly. I recommend using scrap pieces for this but to ensure that everything lines up and works correctly, you will want to keep them as the plans have them. If you do not have scrap big enough, don't use partial pieces as this guide was made to work with the pieces as they are.

Lay out the bottom piece. It has a circle cut out. (The photo in this step shows a back in the circle - I did not take photos of the assembly of the guide) 

Glue on the next piece which also has a circle cut out of the center but also two line scored on either side of the circle. Before the glue sets, stand the two pieces up and ensure that all sides are even and there is no overhang in the center circle all the way around. 

Finally, glue on the top piece. This is an odd shaped piece with both sides labeled with “Line up U top here” and arrows. The is explained in the Frame Assembly step. Use the left line of the last piece you glued on and line up the left leg of this third piece with that. Then, again, before the glue sets, stand the guide up on edge and ensure that the edges are aligned and there is no overhang in the center circle cutout.

Before assembling the frames, take a strip of 3m 468mp adhesive about ½" wide by about 8-12" in length. Take each frame/ornament front and overlap the top edge of the backside onto the adhesive and cut along the edge with a hobby knife. Be sure to remove the part over the hole of the ornament top - you do not want that part to be sticky. 

NOTE: If using glue instead of 3m and you are using EcoBirch, crosshatch along the backside of each frame/ornament front to help ensure the glue seeps in and provides a stronger adhesion.

When assembling the frames/ornament, each one will be almost identical with just small differences due to the makeup of the fronts. 

1. Lay down your frame assembly guide from step 4. Put in a frame back and ensure the oval is going up and down from top to bottom.  
2. Peel off the 3m 468mp paper from one side of a half circle or “U”. Line it up so the top point on either side is lined up with the labeled points on the guide that says “Line up ”U" top here" (See photo 4) Firmly press it down and ensure the bottom of the “U” is lined up with the bottom of the back on the guide.
3. Each of the Acrylic pieces are cut to shape to fit in exactly and line up with the “U” and the top of the guide. Press it in place and esure the edges are level with the “U”.
4. Peel off the other side of the 3m 468mp adhesive on the “U” piece.
5. Peel off the small strip of 3m 468mp adhesive on the back of the front frame piece. Line it up with the top of the guide and then slowly lower it down. NOTE: The edges of some of the frames years 1-5 will line up with the little divot on the right side of the guide when done correctly. The snowflake on the ornament will line up with the little divot on the left side when done correctly. When you are happy with how it looks, firmly press down to set the adhesive.
6. Remove the frame/ornament from the guide and flip it so the back is facing up. Take a soft tipped item like a stylus or put a few pieces of cotton ball or papertowel on the end of a pen and press on the acrylic through the hole on the back side to help set the adhesive even more.
7. Once you have assembled the frames/ornament, move on to Step 6.

NOTE: I offer a bundle for sale that includes differing sizes of kickstands on Designfind at https://projects.xtool.com/project/20613-kickstand-bundle-for-signs-and-portraits 

The kickstands here are made for this particular project. First, just as with the frames, if using EcoBirch, you will want to crosshatch cut into the backs of the frames where the hinge pieces are going to connect. (See photos 3 and 4). Lay your kickstand  with the hinge pieces attached in place so that the bottom of the kickstand aligns with the bottom of the frame. Mark with a pen or hobby knife where the edge of the hinge pieces are. Lay a strip of glue down and then firmly press the hinge pieces down atop the glue. 

To ensure everything works. Hold down the hinge pieces firmly with a finger on each one and the frame laying face down. Slowly move the leg of the kickstand up and down several times. Do not jerk the leg up and down as you risk detaching it from the frame back. You are just ensuring proper and easy movement to start with. 

Let the frames rest face down for 5 - 7 minutes to let the glue fully cure (an hour plus is optimal) then stand the frames up by pulling the kickstand out fully and resting the frame to lean back on it. 

NOTE: The “Welcome Little One” Frame has a rounded bottom and may sway slightly when propped up. If this bothers you, you could always cut away a bit of the kickstand bottom prior to cutting to create a stronger flat edge for it to rest on.

To ensure a proper fit for your picture, take the clear acrylic piece with the scored circle in the center. Line it up over your picture and make sure the part you want showing in the frame is in the scored circle. Use a hobby knife (or mark the picture with a pen and use scissors) to cut away around the clear acrylic guide. This will create a perfect fit picture. 

As you can see, I used a picture of one of my birds for this photo as an example. 

Once you cut the picture, look at the top of a frame/ornament. It will seem like you have no room to insert a photo. Actually, you just take your fingernail or a thin flat item like a nail file and gently pry to separate the back of the frame/ornament from the acrylic. Gently slide the bottom of the picture into the opening and it will slide right down with gentle guidance from you. If needed, use the opening in the back of the frame to pull the picture down into place. 

Should you need to remove the picture, use the hole in the back to gently push the picture up and out. 

The top of the baby box can be designed however you want. I recommend at least putting the new childs name on it but go wild and put designs on it as well. Maybe a teddy bear or toys or even a rocking horse. 

This box is not meant to just be used to hold the frames. It is also used to store memories like other photos, a lock of hair from that first hair cut, a babys first rattle, etc… This is meant to be a keepsake box for memories. 

Mothers, particularly new mothers, will love and appreciate this as it is a gift that gives for years and years. Keeping memories of a child, especially in those first years, is important and carries deep and heartfelt emotion for just about every mother I have ever met. 

Let this be a Mothers Day gift that they won't forget.  

And when you have time, check out my other plans available on Designfind at https://projects.xtool.com/profile/15190