I created the base structure of the box using the free software from https://www.Makercase.com.  

Height 280mm Width 280 mm  Open Box with Finger Joints

Sides, Top and Bottom  60mm by 280 mm

Download the file.  Just a note, if you open the file directly you will not see anything more than the words.  Only when opened in XCS will you see the entire plan.  

Place the Sides, Tops and Bottoms onto one screen.  

Create a rectangle to run down the middle of each piece.  4.03 mm wide 273mm long.   Place this in the center of the piece and turn it into an engraving.  This is a support for the middle piece.

On another screen make 4 more pieces at 4mm wide and 270 long.   These will be cuts that will be used in the assembly process to secure a the middle layer.

I have found this is easiest to cut first as you can get 3 pieces  (the bottom and the sides) glued and set together while other pieces are processing.  

I recommend using corner clamps while these cure.  Helps keep things inline for the other pieces.

You will notice this layer is slightly smaller than the 280x280 box that was built.  This is so the top and bottom pieces are not interfered with during assembly.

Draw your first box at 278x278.

Draw the second box at 217 wide and 215 height.  Center this in the first box.

You will need to purchase the female knight file from the seller on Etsy.  The shop is at: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LilyDesignsGoods   the file is: Kneeling Female Warrior SVG 4 Cut File - Armored Woman Knight with Sword, Noble Medieval Art, Digital Download  @$3.50 for the four files.  

Choose the file you want to use.  Open the file using the image choice in XCS.

Size the file down and place it toward the  right side of the interior square.  

Offset this piece.  Default Setting works well.

Group the inner square and the knight.

Make them a Compound Vector. (See Compound Vector Screens above)

Open the edit vector screen.

Zoom in very close to where the knight offset and the interior square meet.

Select the scissors.  Highlight the areas in between the circles and click.  This will remove the line (this line tells the laser how and what to process)  

Make sure you leave lines to combine the two pieces.  (See New Routing Screen above) 

Click Done

Set the knight to engraving settings and the two boxes to cut.

Save this file.  It is your inner layer.

The church photo is 010.png in the file list.

We have permission from the creator to include it in this project.  If you would like the rest of this 10 pack of church images please visit his Etsy shop at https://www.etsy.com/shop/DakotaMillworksShop .   There are many other great files for laser projects.  Thanks to Patrick for his help with this.

Return to the file you opened that had all the pieces of the box.  Use either the front or the back and copy, paste it to a new screen.

Insert the picture and size it so it sits just inside the finger grooves.

Set your engrave and cut features and save the file.

 Return to the file you opened that had all the pieces of the box.  Use either the front or the back and copy, paste it to a new screen.

Insert a box of 217 wide and 215 width.  Center it.

Set everything to cut.

Save this as your front piece

When I purchased my heat pen through XTool, there was no heat foil in inventory.  I found some elsewhere for similiar processing senarios.  While most colors work well some color take some trial and error for them to successfully transfer.   Hence, if you run out and try something different, do a lot of testing and record your set.

The picture with this is an example from another project but the process is similar.

I will give you both examples:

(A) If you want your foil letters on the frame itself, the stain will need to be clear or light (0therwise it is hard to see).   Take your cut top frame piece lay the foil face down on a clean work surface.  Cut enough foil to wrap it around the wood.  Tape it with painters tape making sure the material is smooth and tight.  1

On light wood I have found that 90-120 speed is average for most foils, others not so much.  When you are finished you should see where the foil has transferred away from the top of the foil.

I know it may seem a waste of material to wrap the foil but I have found it is a better transfer if I can find a way to keep it taut.  I'd rather spend the pennies for foil than for wood that didn't work.

(B) Create your words to fit where you want them to be.  Then move them in proximity of each other.  Prep a piece big enough and again wrap the foil.  

When you have completed this transfer don't close your screen.  Rather, place the wood for cutting. Use your camera, or the app and locate your words.  Zoom in.

Place the words in “Score” around the foiled words.  

Merge the words and then offset them.

Set parameters for your score and then cut for the offset.

A TIP: When you remove the foil you wrapped around the wood, use a razor blade close to where the tape is.  It will come away cleanly.

You will start with the small “brace pieces” cut when the sides and top was cut.  (See the photo Braces)

Glue a piece on each side of the engraved area of the bottom and both sides.  These will help hold the inner piece of the box together. 

Once that has dried, complete the construction of the bottom and both sides.  Using corner braces will help your box remain square.

Generously glue the inside of the fingers for the back piece and put it in place.  Do the same for the front.

Then add the middle pieces between the braces. Whether or not you use glue is up to you.

Glue the top on.  Let it dry.

If your foil work was done on separate wood add them at this point.

Congratulations!   Enjoy your box.  Now that you have a basic box build you can make something completely your own.