Open two windows in XCS.

Draw two hearts that overlap.  Group them. Set them to Score.

Copy and Paste the design into the second window.

Select the file in the new window.  In the upper row of icons select unite.

• Cover an area considerably larger than your project with parchment papaer or large silicone mat.
• Make sure your work surface is level.  I use a craft table as I know my shop is not level.
• Cover the table generously with parchment paper.  Remember the parchment is cheaper than the table and easier to clean up.
• Gather your supplies for clear cast resin pour and painting.  You will need clear cast resin (Part A Resin and Part B Hardener) I use solo shot cups, large solo cups.  A mixing stick.  A Foam Brush and a pair of vinyl or nitrate gloves.
• Gather your supplies for white pour.  This will be done in two steps so you will need 4 shot cups and 2 large cups.  You will need Casting Resin Part A and B.  Sticks and gloves.
• Cover a board larger than your wood cut and cover it with Tyvex tape,
• Gather your supplies for painting the hearts
• Prepare your heating mat if you have and are using one.
• Clean your mold with a 2:1 ratio of alcohol and water

• Paint 3-4 layers of acrylic paint on the hearts.
• Allow at least an hour for the paint to dry
• Once the paint is dry scuff the hearts with high grit sandpaper.  
• Drill hole large enough to slide easily over the center of the mold.
• Double check your placement 
• Make sure your mold is clean of any debris.

• Before you make your pour grab a pair of tweezers and small scissors (like a children's or embroidery)
• This resin sets very quickly.  And more so when the resin is thin. 
• The trick is making this pour with little, if any getting under the other pour.  This is a challenge I have yet to master. But don't worry I have discovered a fix.
• Your first 3 or 4 pours should be very small.
• Due to the work time on this resin make your measurements.  Pour both of them into the large cup.  You should see a flash of white.  Hold the cup from the bottom as you stir.  When you feel the resin start to warm it is time to get it in the mold.
• Begin this pour in 3 or 4 thin pours.  If you have the ability clamp the design to the mold.  If you can't clamp (I can't) find a way to weight it with more than the last pour but leave yourself work room.  (NOTE:  If you have someone to help it make it easier.)
• Pour as close to the wood as possible.  Then add pressure until it turns white. 
• Let this cure for at least 15 minutes.
•  Then you can mix larger batches (because it sets so fast don't try to do the rest of the pour in one shot).  
• Once you have leveled the mold with resin wait 15-20 minutes before you remove from the mold.  
• The mold should be just barely warm.  If the white has slipped over the hearts you have only a few minutes to make a fix.

• Place the resin and the hardener in a bath of hot water for 15-20 minutes.  This will thin the resin (part A) and make measuring easier.
• Set a shot cup in front of each bottle (you don't want to mix them up)
• Pour an equal amount into each shot glass (for this pour I used the first line inside the cup - this step requires only a little resin)  
• NOTE: they must be a 1:1 ratio or there is a possibility the resin will not cure.
• Pour each cup into the larger one
• Stir, Stir, Stir for about 4-5 minutes.
• This type of resin has a work time of about 40 minutes.  Once you have stirred set it aside for about 5 minutes to let the bubbles settle.  
• NOTE: Make sure you know the working time of your resin.  If you have a shorter working time setting it aside will be for less time.  The chemical reaction will become impossible to pour if left to long.
• Paint a thin coat around the center of the mold.
• Paint the wood with a slightly thicker coat.
• Set aside for 5 minutes
• Watch for bubbles.  If they appear pop them with a heat gun, hair dryer or long barrel lighter,
• After the 5 minutes if you are using a heat pad place it under the mold.
• Place the wood paint side down.
• Use a paper towel wet with 2:1 alcohol and water to wipe away the resin not directly under the mold..  
• This will need 2-3 hours to cure if using a mat or 5-6 hours if curing at room temperature.
• Place your Tyvex board tape down over the hearts.  This won't stick to any resin that may shift upwards during this cure
• Place weight on top of the Tyvex Board.  Leave until the resin is cured (you can touch it without getting on your fingers)

• Before you begin this pour grab a set of tweezers and small scissors in case you need to fix when you demold
• Begin this pour in the center.  Make multiple thin pours.  
• When mixing this resin remember you only have a few minutes.  I suggest when you have both part a and b in the cup you hold it from the bottom.  When you start to feel it getting warm it is time to get it in the mold.
• If you can clamp the mold while you pour this will help bleeding underneath.  I did not have that option with this mold.
• If you can't clamp it you will need to find a way to add pressure.  If you can get someone to help it does help.
• Don't try to pour the rest of the resin in one step.  This product becomes unworkable quickly.   This should be about four steps.
• After it has been poured and set for 10-15 minutes when it isn't hot, but warm go ahead and demold.
• This is your chance to quickly fix any bleed that may have occurred.  With the tip of a sharp tool (I used an old cricut tool) lift away the white from the clear resin.  It should either peel away or you can trim it.
• Once the resin starts to set hard you need to set it aside for half an hour.

• Start with a low grit sandpaper and work up to 5000 grit ultimately.  I only had enough to get to 3000 but it was plenty.
• Sand the whole piece.  Don't worry that you are scratching it.  The finish and the polish will fill those micro scratches.
• On the back sand the heightened wood as close to the resin as possible.  I do this with an orbital sander and a detail sander.  
• There are multiple ways to finish the piece.  You can put a thin coat of clear resin on the top, you can use a wax and polish it in.   I chose UV resin.  2 coats painted in opposite directions.  This is done with a sponge brush and then cured a bit at a time using a uv light.  (Mine was $10 at Hobby Store)
• I cured the resin twice just to ensure its dry.
• When that is complete I use a car wax meant for plastic headlights.  Polish it in.
• Then I step back and I enjoy.