As previously described in my project https://www.designfind.com/project/36553-cutting-metal-with-a-standard-f1-coin-cell-battery-holder, the standard F1 can cut very thin copper and brass stock with some patience.  Using Canvas 1 of the attached XCS design, I took a simple heart shape and then put the initials of the lovebirds as text.  

Right-clicking on the text in XCS, you can convert the text to compound vectors.  Then you can edit vector points to attach the vectors of the letters to the vector of the heart, and make one compound vector out of the whole thing.

You want to use a base that you don't mind cutting into here, as the laser will go through the metal and score up your base.  So use a wood base for the F1.  I've developed a few, such as https://www.designfind.com/project/26627-multipurpose-f1-jewelry-base-dual-project, that you can cut on the P2/P2S.  Then tape the metal to the wooden base and cut.

As seen in the photo, I tape the metal down because thin metal like this absolutely will curl and release as the metal gets cut through, and that will make life difficult.  Therefore, the expert craftsperson will

1. Design the object so that the tiny parts (insides of letters) are cut first.
2. Then cut out the letters and the part of the heart between them second.
3. then, last, cut out the heart.

Even so, you may have to pause and tape to keep things from curling up.  this is very thin metal.  Once it's all cut out, use X-Acto knife/scalpel/tweezers as needed to carefully separate what you want from what you don't.

the metal I used is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NW9KKPN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title  (0.001" X 4" X 79" 99.99% pure copper).

This part is easy.  Using Canvas 2, setup and cut the little cupid figurines.  I have them as small as you can go before the width of the laser itself risks breakage of the thinnest parts like the bow.  Three Cupids were found on Google and converted to bitmaps and outlines.  If you make something larger, perhaps you will want to use the bitmaps for engraving inside the outline.  

Do remember to ensure that XCS is connected to a P2/P2S for this, not the F1.

I also put in the outline of a heart that's a bit larger than the mold used for the resin.

I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GXQYC2G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title resin and the mold is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G57CX7S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title.  The UV curing box is from Coospider, but I'm not sure they make this model any more.  The UV lamps are https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPH56228?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title.  

the casting is done in multiple steps.  

1. First, level the curing box and whatever stand you use.  This is critical.  then, pour in UV resin into the pendant mold to about ¼ full.  Turn on the UV lights for a few minutes and let this first pour harden.
2. Next, set the red acrylic Cupid onto the hardened first pour, and then add enough resin to cover the Cupid plus a bit more (say, to about 65-75% full).  Turn on the lights and harden this.
3. then set in the heart of copper, and pour more resin on.  Make sure you get it flat enough so it won't stick out the back.  Add more resin until mold is full, and harden again.
4. Take it out, polish and trim edges.

I drilled mine from back to front for mounting.  That seemed easier than trying to cast in a metal loop.

I believe you could make this design even slicker by cutting the backing piece (larger heart, canvas 2) out of mirror acrylic, but I didn't have any on hand, and have read that one must be VERY careful to select the right glue to bond UV resin to acrylic.
 

the attached photo is a piece I messed up (cupid is backwards) that I test-glued with CA adhesive (Super Glue/Krazy Glue).  You do not want that result (believe it was from a little alcohol left over from cleaning the black piece).  There are UV glues like UV resins, so that might be better.  YMMV, please do research.

Anyway, happy Valentine's day to all.  This one is my wife's and my 42nd.