will.donahue
Report

Custom License Plate

Instruction
liscenseplatesBEST.xcs
liscenseplatesBEST
.xcs
Application scenario
Laser processing (120min)
Machine & module
xTool D1 Pro
20W
Compatibles · 2
Material used
Aluminium
24
262
Information
      Custom Designed Welding Skulls and Tribal Images on Front License Plate. Playing with Polished aluminum and paint with the XTool D1 Pro.
    
Instruction
1
Step1: Polish ALUMINUM
Preview

Standard measurements for a license plate are 12'' X 6''. I was able to cut out this size via a plasma cutter in my welding shop. But you can cut it out with a cutting disc and a 4.5'' cutting wheel, or order it precut.

To get rid of heavy scratches and save myself some elbow work, I used a sand blaster to get the surface even and dull. Afterwards, I started with 220 grit and worked my way through 320, 400, 600, 800.1000, and 1500. It looked good there, but I went a step ahead and went to a buffing wheel going through 3 grits up to 2500.  It is up too you how shiny you want it to be. You will either be burning away paint or powder coat, which ever you choose. I have done both.

2
Step2: Primer paint or powder coat
Preview

I then sprayed the polished aluminum with a metal-made black, flat primer. Very light coat first, then filled it in on the second coat so that it was entirely even and covered.

3
Step3: Ready to Burn

I use various AI platforms to design custom skulls and separately design welding helmets in various positions. I enjoy using Creative Space to go in and custom put the two together. You could download or probably purchase or pick whatever designs you want. I make sure the primer is completely dry and MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FORCED VENTILATION. Burning paint and powder coat is very dangerous to your lungs. I am a welding Instructor and take great pride in safety.

Lastly, I always burn from the center out. It is very easy to find the center of the plate, mark it slightly, and line the laser up. I have a white paint marker that I use and make a tiny dot in the direct center. Aligning the laser dot, it is very easy to see the laser brightness change when you are on the white mark.

4
Step4: Candy Finish
Preview

Once your design is burned, the finished result will be that your design is the mirror surface. You can be done here if you want. With black primer, it looks very cool. However, I purchase the transparent spray paint from the auto stores. They are often called “candy colors”. Being transparent, they don't really affect the black but your polished mirror will come out the candy color. I used a metallic blue, but you can purchase almost any color you want.

5
Step5: Don't forget the mounting holes

I did forget to mention in step 1 to mark your holes and drill them out. Each car brand does the spacing different and unless you want to try to cut the ovals, I suggest marking your plate holding it in position in front of the holes or markers on your bumper. You can also buy a plate border that closes around it and no drilling is needed.

6
Step6
Preview

Once the candy color is dry (4 hrs.) I suggest using a good clear coat. This will protect your work. Light coats, maybe 5-7 with 15 minutes apart or it will crow crack on you. Wait 24 hours, lightly sand with 220, then repeat the coats of the clear and it will look very lusterous, almost like it was dipped in glass.

I have made several plates, not just skulls. I have used this exact method for names, sports teams, welder logos. The candy/mirror look is cool and if you put plenty of clear coat on it, it will be protected from UV and weather and road salt.

Comments
Remixes
xTool Supplies Used in This Template
xTool D1 Pro
xTool D1 Pro
Aluminium
Aluminium