Load the first project into XCS and use the P2 (P2S) to cut out the base, risers and tee supports.  Take the base and turn it over.  Sand if you like to remove any spray from text engraving.  Apply glue to the four bottom edges of the base and take the four thin riser pieces.  Glue the risers cut edge down as shown in second picture, aligning them with edges of the base piece.  This will make the base sit nice in the F1, replacing the metal base of the F1.

flip the base right side up.

Here you have some options.  If you are using shorter tees (e.g. 2 ¼ inch) you can insert the two pieces with the small holes in the two lines of holes at the center of the base piece as shown in first picture.  then you can glue in the shaft support pieces as shown in following pictures.  As you can see, it almost fits with the 2 ¾ inch tees I was using, but not quite.  With shorter tees, you can load a greater number.

To use this, you simply stick the pointy end of the tee in the little holes and let the tee rest in the half-circle shaft supports.

Unfortunately, there's a lot of variation in the length of the tees and also in the angle/length of the taper at the end of the tees, as shown in a random sampling laid along a ruler in my P2. 

So if you're going to be using 2 ¾ inch long tees, please use step 3 instead.

If, as I did, you're using 2 ¾ inch tees, you'll have to assemble fewer holding pieces onto the base to accomodate the longer tee length.  Of course, you can and should just cut out two sets and glue them up in both configurations to handle different tee sizes.  

by the way, this is set up for standard 4.5mm shaft diameter tees that can be purchased anywhere.  if you're using fancy thin ones, please modify project.

In this option, you put one copy of the piece with the little holes at one side, arrange two shaft holder pieces as you like, and you get one row of tees instead of two.  this allows you to use longer tees.

Now switch over to the F1 project for engraving the text onto your tees.  ensure that the text is properly aligned for every tee you are putting in.

Note that variation in the tees you buy may again limit how many you can load.  With the Walmart cheapest tees, the sizes of the heads vary quite a bit, and I noticed some interference between them if I tried to load every position.  You can compensate it you like by moving the holes a little farther apart in the project, or just use every other position.  
 

Please be certain to adjust focus point of the F1 and also make certain that the text frames correctly on every tee before you cut.  As shown, I'm getting six done with each pass.  Happy gifting to the golfer in your life.

I have also posted a wood F1 base at https://www.designfind.com/project/24550  for doing Christmas ornaments.  This wood F1 base works well for holding golf balls if you set the F1 partway over the edge of the table or put the machine up on a riser.  I personally like the way the CO2 laser cuts golf balls better than the F1, so I'll probably design a different P2 base for doing multiple golf balls in a couple days.