The design file is all laid out for use on a 12" x 12" piece of basswood, using a 9" x 7" rectangle.  You are of course free to move all the bits around to use up scrap.

Please note there are two different “Replacement F1 bases” in the design.  Each of these is an exact fit to the F1 base, and the four thin rectangles are spacers to match the shoulder of the F1 base.  The upper base is engraved with shapes to fit a bunch of the Xtool jewelry bits, the lower base has the same hole pattern as the F1 base.

So if all you want is the base for the flat jewelry pieces, only cut that out.  Originally, I did it for the bracelet supports, then added the cutouts for the flat stuff.

The four thin rectangles are applied to the bottom of each base, turned sideways. Use a glue stick on the bottom of the replacement F1 base piece, affix the four standoffs cut side down around the edges, aligned to the edges.  This will fit the offset of the F1 itself so that the wood base will sit level in the F1 with the rest of the F1 body, just like the original F1 base.

(Hint: you can use these wood F1 bases to made custom jigs of your own that have fixed purposes, just swap them in and out, makes fixturing your F1 for multiple jobs easier).

At this point the base with the engraved cutouts for flat jewelry is done.  Just put it in your F1 and enjoy nicely aligned pieces.  No more text that's at a slight angle because you had problems framing it.

the base with the holes and all the fiddly bits will make four bracelet holders, two for the top (outer) side of the bracelet, two for the bottom (inner) side of the bracelet.  Each bracelet holder is a stack of four parts.  

the design file has eight of the pieces with legs.  If you look carefully, that is because there are four with thinner legs that can be used (after a bit of sanding) to fit the hole size of the metal F1 plate.  I outlined those in red.  The four with the slightly wider legs are set to exactly fit the holes in the wooden F1 plate.

the F1 plate has tapped holes with a smaller diameter than used in the wooden plate.  The legs are cut width-wise the correct size but 3mm wood is a bit thick, so you have to sand or file off about 0.2mm of thickness before they'll drop into the threaded holes.  These are provided as a convenience, but my recommendation is that you use use the wood base and not bother to cut out these extra pieces.  In the design file they're orange so you can easily find and exclude them.

Start a #4-40 screw into one of the curved pieces.  the order of the sandwich is curved piece, leg piece, curved piece, rectangle.  Turn the screw until the end just crowns out the other side.  Put a little glue on the leg piece then press the leg and curved piece together as you advance the screw to just crown out the leg piece.  Continue with the second curved piece, then finally add the rectangle. 

As soon as the sandwich is complete, place the leg piece in the holes of the base and press to square the four pieces of the sandwich together.  As soon as the glue sets, you're ready.

The bracelet holders will support the curve of the bracelet so it doesn't go anywhere.  The rectangle piece of each support aligns the bracelet to the X-Y axis so that lines and text come out straight.  The holders are designed so that each holder is very close to the distance between the holes in the bracelet itself, so if you want to add a couple little upward-pointing legs to the leg piece or the curve piece to completely lock the bracelet in place, that's very easy to do.  I was ambivalent about the value of that, but will probably make a set to experiment.

Note that you can fit four bracelets at the same time with this jig, allowing some production scale utility.