The 2 point level allows you to use the mini level that came with the xTool machine for tumblers/water bottles that have a transition in the middle of the tumbler.

The file provides several sizes I have made and use for varying cups.

Note: for a little more stability, two cutouts of the same level and glued together provides a little more stability for the mini level.

As you use it, the slot for the mini level may start to loosen.  As you can see in the picture a layer of painters tape (or any tape) will help close the gap and hold the level still.

After this step is complete, you can shut off the M1 until needed later.  I prefer to not leave my machine idol, and turn it on when needed.  This is my preference.

The first step to engraving the tumbler is knowing where the graphics will land on the tumbler.

1. At the top left of XCS, click on the processing mode.  It may be defaulted to process on baseplate.  A pop up window will appear.  Select the “Chuck-Use rotary attach”
2. Once this is selected the screen will change to show a vertical green line in the work area.
3. Measure the cup circumference.
4. At the top of the screen, next to the processing mode, there will be a new icon for diameter.  Select the down arrow and select circumference.
5. Input the circumference.
6. Take the time to layout a tumbler template.  The one provided sets the tumbler up, where the file starts at the handle, and engraves around the cup.  Note: you can work anywhere on the work space.  it doesnt have to be in the grid portion.  I usually end up with things all over the white space around the work area.
   1. The Notations of “Facing Away” and “Facing You” are meant when holding the cup with the handle in your right hand.  In this example, holding the cup with your right hand, the R would be facing you, and the starfish would be facing outward.
   2. The template has several guide lines.  
   3. The width of the rectangle in the file is based on the circumference of the cup.  This is measured with the xTool tape measure.  for this file, its set at 315mm.  
   4. The height of the rectangle is the height of the cup's powder coating from the start of the powder coating to the base of the cup, just at the transition to the base.
   5. The extra horizontal lines are the transition from the smaller to larger radius.
   6. The vertical lines in the template are far left (Center of handle bracket), second from left, center of the cup facing away from you.  Middle line: opposite side of the cup from the handle.  4th line from the left: center of the cup facing you.  Far right is the center of the handle bracket again.
   7. If you need to add additional templates to identify cup logos do that as well.  Take your time and ensure they end up in the right place.

Note: If you printed a line that stretched from the left line to the far right, it would completely circumference your cup.

The file attached to this step is meant to be a template.  Ensure that whatever you do, the green lines are turned off when engraving, or you'll end up with this template engraved along with your design.

Now that you have a template of where you can work and where to add graphics, its time to have some fun designing your tumbler!

1. Fill in the template as desired.  Either with individual graphics, lettering, lines, or a complete full wrap from left to right.  
2. However you desire to decorate your tumbler, keep the design in the lines and mind the placement relative to where you want it to be on the tumbler.
3. There's many ways to generate or buy designs/artwork/lettering.  I'll let your imagination fill your tumblers engraving as you wish.  
4. Save.  Shortcut: ctrl+s
5. Name the file and select the location.

Note: on the tapered portion of the cup, some people have stated that the graphics feel a little squished.  (A circle is not completely round, its squished left to right).  I have found that when adding individual graphics on the bottom, I unlink the aspect ratio, and stretch the design just a small amount.  This helps to reduce the compression.  

1. In the XCS program grab the template and your design.  its time to Copy and paste.  I prefer just left clicking and creating a box around the template.
2. Shortcut to copy: ctrl+c
3. Shortcut to pate: ctrl+v
4. While the new paste is highlighted.  Grab it and move it over to the side out of the work space.  You're not going to use this.  Its just a backup.  This copy is just in case you need to come back and change something later.
5. In XCS grab all the elements that you plan to engrave on the tumbler.  
6. This can be done by holding shift down and left clicking all the elements.
7. Afterwards click the Unite icon at the top of the screen.
8. Your design should now just be one block.  even if there's separate pieces.  This will help in processing on the laser machine.
9. While you have your new design highlighted.  Lets set your engraving settings.  This can be unique.  As everyone's machines have minor variances.  And different cups and brands have minor or even major variances.  For the powder coated cups, I have found that 80% / 170 mm/s / 1 Pass / 220 lines is a great setting for my machine and cups.
10. Keep the template and the design together at this point.  We are going to move it around later for final setup.  But we need to design and the template to stay aligned with each other.
11. While everything in the merged design and the template lines are selected, go to the top of the screen, and where it says 0 degrees, type 180.  This will turn the design around.  (Do not do a reflection.  or it will print backwards)
12. Move the deisgn and template into the work space.  Align the template line to the rotary laser line.  Its not critical for placement yet.  just putting it there for now.
13. Save: ctrl+s

Its time to remove the handle from the Tumbler.  the xTool tumblers come with a little screw driver in the box.  

1. Find the appropriate tool, and remove the tumbler handle.
2. Now there is two tabs sticking up.  If these remain standing, the laser had may hit them.  This would affect the setup, and ruin the engraving.  So we need to bend them down.
3. There's two ways to avoid this.  
   1. Option One, adjust your setup to where the laser never passes over the tabs. This method requires you to limit your design and setup where there is no design close to the handle of the cup and does not wrap around.  This limits a full wrap option.  But its an option.
   2. Option Two, bend the tabs down using pliers (See Pictures).
      1. This is a delicate part, and to me is the most nerve-wracking part of the process.  If you apply too much bending stress to the base of the tabs, the welds will pop off.  Either 1, 2 or more.  Its a nice little ping sound.  And this could potential ruin the tumbler before you even get started if you rip too many of them.  Goal is zero welds broken.  I have had 2 tumblers pop a rivet.  It can happen.  Just be careful and it'll work.  (Another lesson I learned the hard way)
      2. Lets go ahead and try for the sake of this tutorial.  (Bending the tabs is what I normally do.)
      3. Place a pair of needle nose pliers on the bracket and the base.  And you'll want to make sure you squeeze and apply pressure to the side away from your bend.  (Don't twist these at the base.  The goal is to keep it square and not let the tab bend at the base of the cup).  If you think about the stresses, this side is wanting to lift, and will want to pull the welds off the cup.  Do not apply so much that you deform the cup.  The intent is to isolate the stress in bending the tab at the middle of the tab.  
      4. Using the pliers, slowly and carefully bend the bracket down.  Basically its bending at a 90 degree about half way up the bracket.  you just do not want to transfer that bending pressure down the base.  I like bigger pliers to start the bend.  Then switch to smaller ones to finish.  Work slowly. 
      5. Repeat for the second tab.
      6. Note: I normally bend these without issue.  Only a few have had issues.  I have not thrown any out at this point.

This is the most stressful to me.  (Along with straightening them back out) We've got several steps to go, but we are on our way.  Now to get this tumbler in the machine!

Note: There are tools people have made and sell to help with this process.  They say they help, but still require care.  I have not tried them.  Others do.  Another personal preference.

The next several steps are important.  As they with get the tumbler properly mounted on the rotary chuck, set the rotary machine in the M1, and align the laser in XCS with the physical location in the M1.

The purpose of these following steps are to get the cup properly mounted on the rotary chuck.  These steps can be performed on a work surface.  It does not have to be in the M1 Machine at this time.

1. Put a piece of painters tape on the top of the rotary housing. 
2. Mark a straight line across the top of the housing.  This is going to be the centerline of your cup and your engraving line.  The line should be square and right over the axis of the machine.  This is going to be a reference line for your setup later.  So although it seems tedious now, its essential later in this setup.  
   1. I use this line to align the XCS laser line in the program later.  I find this reference the machine easy to use because it is on a stationary component.  
   2. You'll use this in a future step, and you have the best access to the rotary chuck now.  That is why I have included it in this step.
3. The Rotary Chuck has several options when it comes to mounting the cups.  I prefer to mount the teeth on the inside of the cup as shown in the photo.  
   1. Some prefer the outside.  Its preference.  
   2. This way they won't interfere with any engraving if you are working close to the edges.
4. Ensure the cup is properly seated.  Use the chuck key to tighten the teeth against the cup.  
   1. They are just plastic gears and teeth, so do not over tighten to the point where you are bending anything.  
   2. However, it should be secure to where the cup is fully supported and suspended from the teeth and does not droop.
5. Rotate the cup on the rotary chuck.  I prefer to turn it using the chuck itself and not pulling/rotating using the cup.
   1. What you are watching for is the cup rotates smoothly without the end bobbing up and down.  
   2. if you see a bobbing motion, rotate the cup to where its at a high point, and slowly and gradually push the end back down.  Or the opposite, rotate it until you see the low point and gradually lift the end of the cup.  
   3. Repeat this until your cup rotates without any up and down motion.  This ensures your cup is on the center axis of the rotary chuck.  

Note: if the cup is not on axis, the height of the cup with vary relative to the laser, and change the focus distance.  This will cause variance in your engraving.  Taking the few minutes to ensure proper placement will help ensure better results.

The next steps squares the rotary chuck in the M1 and levels the cup.  

Its best to leave the M1 off for these steps, as we are not ready to process the cup yet.  This is setup.

Squaring the cup to the machine ensures the designs engrave vertically on the cup.  if it is off square, the design will engrave and look slanted.  

Leveling the cup sets the cup as level as can be so that the machine can etch the design as evenly as possible from top to bottom of the cup.

1. The M1 should be setup on the M1 Riser or riser blocks.  If using the blocks, its the Y setup.  On the Riser, place the baseplate in the bottom slot (just under the Y rail).
2. Pickup the RA2 Rotary by the base or by the housing.  Do not carry the setup by the cup, or you may shift the cup off axis.  Place it on the baseplate in the M1.  Place the chuck and belt on the right.  The cup's base should be to the left of the machine.
3. Plug in the RA2 Pro cable into the machine and into the RA2 Pro base.  (In the back)
4. Using a square, or right angle ruler butt the end of the square against the left edge of the riser as shown in the picture.  and then align the Rotary base on the square.  This ensures the RA2 is square to the machine and the laser head will move up and down the axis of the cup.
5. Setting the cup on the support roller: 
   1. Lower the support roller (Separate piece from the RA2 rotary) by screwing the knob counter-clockwise
   2. Gently place underneath the free-hanging end of the tumbler.  You do not want to mess up the square alignment of the RA2 base.  The chuck is about to just balance on the right end of the base.  It will stay square, if you be careful.  
   3. Ensure the roller support is not on the very edge of the tumbler, and has good engagement with the side cup.  (See photo above)  
   4. Too close the end, and it may slip off during processing, which would ruin the engraving.  (Happened to me once)
6. Leveling the cup for engraving across the top and bottom portions of the tumbler:
   1. Place the 2 point level on top of the cup.  Turn the roller support knob clockwise until the bubble is centered in the level.
7. Rotate the cup to where the tabs are vertical.  they should be in line with the painters tape line on the RA2 housing.

Congratulations, you've squared the rotary chuck to the M1 and leveled the tumbler.  Next we'll measure the laser distance.

This step will find the average distance of the cup to the laser head.

Do not worry where the red dot lands in the machine.  Its not needed using this method.  You'll be manually entering your cup's distance.  Do not move the RA2 around. 

Taking Measurements: There are two methods to do this.  if you do not have calipers, you can use the M1 ruler method.  I prefer calipers, as this method does not require eyeing the measurement.  I can read the value off the caliper.

1. M1 Ruler Method:  
   1. Pull the Laser head over the cup and place the ruler at the bottom edge of the powder coating.  Stand the ruler up vertically, and read the mm value at the top edge of the laser head.  (Should be around 23-25mm give or take a few)
   2. Pull the Laser head over the cup and place the ruler at the high point of the transition.  This is the highest (mountain peak) of the center of the cup.  Stand the ruler up vertically, and read the mm value at the top edge of the laser head.  (Should be around 17-20mm give or take a few)
   3. Pull the Laser head over the cup and place the ruler at the top edge of the powder coating.  Stand the ruler up vertically, and read the mm value at the top edge of the laser head.  (Should be around 23-25mm give or take a few)
   4. Add all three values together (a+b+c)
   5. Divide the total by 3. (Should be around the value of 22)
   6. Enter this number into XCS thickness box on your software.  Save the file.
2. Caliper Measurement method (My preferred.  See photos)
   1. process the steps 1a thru 1c but using the calipers as shown in the pictures.  If you have them, you'll notice the ease and better accuracy in the measurement.  and you dont have to try and get your eye level in the machine to read the number.  
   2. Add all three values together (a+b+c)
   3. Divide the total by 3.
   4. Subtract 114.05.
   5. (Should be around the value of 22)
   6. Enter this number into XCS thickness box on your software.  Save the file.
3. If your unsure, try doing it both ways.  See what you prefer.  Either should end up at the same number.  But the caliper method will provide the most accurate result.

You know have a tumbler that is properly 

Circumference input into XCS

On the RA2 Chuck Axis

Square to the Machine

Leveled

Distance measured from laser head.

Time to get the RA2 aligned in XCS.  On to the next step.

These steps will get XCS setup to understand where in the M1 the RA2 is setting.  After this, we are good to go!

1. Turn on the machine and link the M1 to XCS.
2. Refresh the screen.  You should see the green vertical line and you should see your design sitting to the right.  In the background you should see your cup.  Its going to appear a little off at this point, but that is okay.  
3. Mouse over the laser line (green line dividing the gray and work space).  Left click and hold.  Move the laser line to where you think is centered over the RA2 blue painters tape with the line across the housing.
4. Under shapes add a vertical line to the workspace.  Add it to the same layer as the template colors (green).
5. Move the vertical line just up against the laser line, and move it over the painters tape of the housing.   Try to put it directly on the laser line.  see image above.
6. Select everything in your work space, and turn off output.
7. Select the vertical line, and turn on output.
8. Go to framing settings.  Turn power down to 1. 
9. Select framing.  When the machine beeps.  stand up, and watch the framing through the lid.  The Laser head should move and draw a little straight line across the painters tape.   
   1. If the line is to the forward or backward, its time to adjust.
   2. Move the laser line to be closer in line with the blue tape, and move the vertical line right next to the line as well.  Frame again.
   3. Repeat until the laser line draws directly on the line on the painters tape.
10. Once the line is drawing on the laser line, you know the laser will engrave directly about the axis of the cup.
11. Next lets center the design top to bottom on the cup.
12. turn off the output to the vertical line.
13. Select your design and the template.  (Note: It should still be upside down in the software).  Move it to where the template touches the edge of the laser line. (See image above).  Try and center the edge of the green rectangle of the template on the cup.
14. Select the left line of the template.  This may highlight the left rectangle.  That is fine.  Turn the output on.
    1. Run framing again.  Watch the laser head move.  it should trace along the bottom edge of the powder coating, cross over to the top edge of the powder coating and return, and draw a line down the cup across the tabs.
    2. if the design needs adjustment, grab everything and move it up or down
    3. If the line is not running directly over the center of the tabs, you may need to open the lid and rotate the chuck slightly to get the tabs centered.  Should be small adjustments at this point.  Be careful not to mess up your alignments at this point.
    4. If you need to adjust the vertical alignment, do so and frame again.  Repeat until the design is centered.

From here to the engraving: DO NOT TURN OFF THE SOFTWARE OR MACHINE.   XCS will reset the settings completed in this step.  if this happens, assume you have to perform this alignment again.

This was another lesson I learned the hard way. :(

Once the alignment is complete we're ready to go.  Proceed to the next step.

This step is going to take some time.  Its never been quicker than the estimated time, and always been longer.  It can be short if  its a small job.  Or the engraving could be up to 3 hours or more for a full top to bottom wrap.  So plan accordingly.  Do not leave this machine unattended.  Even though I have the fire suppression installed, I still would not count one that alone.

1. In the XCS software, highlight everything.  Turn off output
2. Select your design in XCS.  Turn on output
3. Verify your engraving settings.  
4. Finally Select “Go To Process”
5. Verify only your design is showing in the work space now.  ensure no template lines or setup line snuck into the final layout.  What you see on this screen is what will end up on the cup.
6. Turn on Air assist
7. Turn on Exhaust/Filters/venting setup
8. Ensure lid is closed, and closeout panels are in place.
9. Select Start
10. Push the button on the front of the machine
11. Wait.  and let the M1 do its thing.

Note: While waiting, for powder coated cups/tumblers, the laser will blacken the engraved areas.  It will not be pretty yet.  You should see progress.  

See you in the next step.

Sorry I do not have pictures of this part.

1.  after the job is complete, turn off the machine and accessories.
2. Open the lid and loosen the chuck.  Remove the cup from the Rotary chuck.
3. Now its gonna look dirty and not pretty.  That is what post processing is for.
4. Bend tabs back (if preferred, washing the cup can happen first.  See step 6, and then come back)
   1. In a reverse of bending the tabs down, we are going to straighten them.  You can still pop welds here.  So be careful.  This time, make sure you apply pressure to the side you are bending up from, so you do not lift the welds.
   2. Work carefully and slowly.  Get those tabs straight.
5. Set the handle back onto the tabs and reinstall the screws.  Hand tight.  do not overtighten. They are only going into plastic in the handle, and you would not want to strip the threads int he handle.
6. Time for cleanup
   1. People have a couple variants, but this is a good method for me.
   2. Go to a sink area.  Spray the cup down with isopropyl alcohol.  Make sure you use isopropyl.  Do not use rubbing alcohol (ethyl).
   3. Using a soft sponge or non-scouring brush, clean off all the black residue.
   4. Rinse
   5. Using a magic eraser, clean up the engraving areas.  This will help remove any haziness and brighten up the engraving.
   6. Clean with a brush and dish soap.  wash inside and out well.

Return the lid to the cup.  Enjoy!

At this point, you can embellish by adding a topper.  There is a free template on design find for various toppers.  Or specific files, or enjoy without.  

Great job you did it.