Want to try out a layered paper cut project? Me too, but I'm no artist, so I downloaded a design from my Creative Fabrica subscription (yep…they totally reeled me in). It seems like they have thousands of designs—I chose a pattern from the Graphics > 3D SVG section of a sea turtle. If you're interested, this is the pattern I used: Turtle Shadow Box, Turtle Paper Cut Svg

Some designs come better packaged than others. This one was straightforward: five SVG files numbered by layer and colored to correspond with the artist's color selections.

Create a new design file and add each SVG image as a different layer so they're easier to differentiate. Position each layer in the same X/Y position, and adjust the size as you'd like, but make sure each layer is exactly the same size. Select All and set the Processing Type to Cut, then Select All again and Ignore (as a starting point).

Now for the material. I used cardstock in varying shades of blue and gray. Depending on the look you want, the machine you're using, and your materials supply, you could choose other material—wood, foam, vinyl, acrylic, or something else. If you're changing up the colors, try to keep the contrast between layers in mind. Sometimes you want them subtle (like the corral layers here), and sometimes dramatic (like the light outlines on the dark turtle layer).

Now set the project type (I chose Laser Flat) and material type for the canvas. Depending on your material, you may need to use the cutting tool instead. Remember: don't laser vinyl or plastic materials. I used the reference values for laser cutting Kraft Paper. I did some experimentation and found these worked perfectly on all the colors I used—even the lighter shades.

Position a sheet of material in your engraver and secure it with magnets or tape. I recommend starting with the bottom layer and working your way forward. Use this to auto-measure the “thickness” of the material. After the camera compensates for your material height, verify that you've positioned the design properly on the material and adjust the whole design as needed.

Select the bottom layer and set it to Output. If you're cutting paper with your laser, I recommend keeping your air assist off. I tried using air assist, and it blew some of the smaller cutouts around and in the way of other, planned cut lines.

The various layers will take different amounts of time. Often the bottom layer in this type of project is a solid area, so it should be a quick one. Remove and carefully wipe any char off the outermost edges of the material. You won't do this in the interior areas of the more detailed layers, but keeping the outer edge clean will minimize your chances of introducing smudges on your material.

One by one, position the sheet of material for each layer in your engraver. Set the previous layer to Ignore and the new layer to Output. If you're using different materials for each layer, remember to adjust your settings accordingly.

Take care lifting and wiping the edges of the more detailed layers when they're done, as they may be more delicate. You may also find they'll leave a bunch of small pieces behind. You'll want to clean those away between each burn.

Tip: Use a piece of masking tape or transfer tape to wipe or lift paper remains off your engraving bed.

After removing and cleaning the outer edges of each layer, place them on top of each other on a flat surface as they'll be in the final project—seeing it all come together is kind of rewarding.

If you're just doing a layered paper design, you can glue each layer, starting at the bottom, by spraying adhesive on the back of each layer you're going to place on the pile. So maybe no adhesive on the bottom layer, but spray and place the next-to-last one on that, then the one above that, and so on.

For a 3D or shadow-box effect, consider adding foam adhesive dots to create some separation between layers. I framed my project in a 3D sign frame that could have housed a shadow box, but I'm just creating this first project with flat layers.