Using the attached design file, modify the name, location, and established year. Remember that since we can't anchor text blocks in XCS, you'll need to manually re-align them after editing. For reference, the side location and date are positioned 8mm out from the central content of the ticket.

I used a painted MDF Dollar Tree sign blank to make my sign. Based on the width of that (which would be the height of the ticket, I used a jigsaw to cut a length of the sign at about 13 inches. Since the ends of the ticket will be laser cut, you don't need to be overly careful about how clean or straight you make the cut.

You may want to run a test pattern on the smaller, remaining piece before running this project to determine the best appearance for the engraving and reverse-field “Admit One” block. I was hoping for a more significant lightening effect, but this material didn't lighten on low burn settings as much as I'd hoped.

Place your material in the engraver, aligning it as straight as possible. Refresh the view, then auto-measure the thickness.

Move the design so it's centered on the board. Adjust carefully so the top and bottom edges of the ticket are beyond the edges of the board. You don't want the laser to cut those edges—there's no need to singe them unnecessarily. If the board isn't level with the design, open the engraver, nudge the board slightly, refresh, and check it again. Repeat as necessary.

When you're satisfied the design is aligned properly, run a framing test. As usual, I like to slow the framing test down as much as possible. The left and right borders should fall on the board while the top and bottom should borders should be just off the board. Spill light from the laser may light up the top of the board as it passes, but make sure it's actually hitting the surface off/below the board. If the laser appears to be hugging the edge (you'll notice it lighting up the edge of the board as it moves past), you're too close on that side, and it could singe or severely burn the board as it passes there. Adjust by nudging the whole design.

Note: This design includes a small hole at the top for hanging. By default, this is set to Ignore. If you want to hang this sign on a small finishing nail, select the Hanging hole layer and set it to Output.

When everything is set as you like it, run the project. Paint is pretty nasty when it burns, so consider wearing a mask. The odor is most noticeable at the start, when it's burning the Admit One text block. The full job takes about 40 minutes.

You may need to push the edges off the ticket when the job completes. MDF cuts are typically pretty dirty, so be careful when moving those pieces and picking up your sign. Use a dry microfiber towel to gently wipe the crevices of the artificial ticket perforations. Re-wipe each crevice multiple times until you're no longer removing dark soot. Take care not to smudge the soot onto the painted surface of the ticket itself.

You're all set. Hang your new sign, and enjoy the show!