![[Laser cut and engrave] Faux Stained Glass Holiday Ornaments Santa and Penguin](https://storage-us.atomm.com/resource/xtool/community/attachment/xtool-community/7f731214-fd45-4c63-a98d-3edf956ef112.png?x-oss-process=image/resize,w_1200,h_900,limit_0/interlace,1/format,webp/auto-orient,1)


Each template features clean, bold linework that engraves or scores beautifully, allowing you to paint inside the lines and finish with a resin topcoat for a glossy stained-glass effect. Because these are single-layer projects, they’re simple, beginner-friendly, and incredibly satisfying to complete—no complicated construction required.
At The Paint Bar, these faux stained glass pieces have become a customer favourite during the holiday season. The examples shown are from a recent class we hosted, where guests absolutely loved how relaxing the process was and how professional their finished pieces looked. They make gorgeous window hangers, wall décor, or handmade gifts.
Perfect for:
Holiday workshops & classes
DIY resin projects
Studio programming
Christmas gifts
Laser cutting artists and hobbyists
Bring a warm, festive glow to your seasonal crafting with our beautiful, easy-to-use faux stained glass templates, designed to shine in any home or studio.
Faux Stained Glass – Step-by-Step Instructions
Materials Needed
Your faux stained glass template (minimum size: 7" tall x 5–6" wide — bigger is always better!)
Contact paper (clear, adhesive)
Resin – we love Let’s Resin (available on Amazon)
Pigments
Mica powders for opaque, rich color
Alcohol inks for transparent, classic stained-glass effects
Wood glue (optional but recommended if using wood)
Mixing cups, stir sticks, gloves, and a protected workspace
How to Make Your Faux Stained Glass Project
Step 1 — Cut Your Template
Cut your design using your laser cutter.
For best results, keep your piece at least 7 inches tall. Smaller pieces can cause the linework to cut too thin or become fragile—especially with wood. Larger sizes create a cleaner, more durable project.
Step 2 — Prepare the Backing
Lay your contact paper sticky side up.
If you're using wood, apply a thin layer of wood glue to the back of your cut design and gently press it onto the contact paper.
This creates an extra seal, preventing resin leaks between the lines.
If using acrylic, you can usually skip the glue because the surface bonds cleanly to the contact paper.
Step 3 — Prep Your Resin & Colors
Before mixing resin, set out your pigments and plan your colors.
Resin generally has about 45 minutes of working time, so prepping ahead makes the process MUCH easier.
Mica powders = solid, opaque finish
Alcohol inks = transparent stained-glass effect
Use both for beautiful blended results—many of our customers love mixing effects!
You won’t need a lot of resin. For most designs, 1–2 ounces is more than enough.
Step 4 — Mix & Pour Your Resin
Mix your resin according to the instructions on the bottle.
Slowly fill each section of your design with your chosen colors, allowing the resin to naturally settle into each space. Work slowly to avoid overflow.
Tip: A toothpick or small stick is great for nudging resin into corners.
Step 5 — Let It Cure
Allow the resin to cure for 24 hours.
Once fully cured, you can peel the piece from the contact paper and hang or display it however you like.
Step 6 — Enjoy Your Finished Stained Glass!
Your project will have that beautiful glossy “glass-like” finish without the complexity of real stained glass. Every piece turns out completely unique, which is why we LOVE this medium in our studio.
If you have any questions, feel free to reach out or leave a comment below — I’m always happy to help.
And please share your beautiful creations… I can’t wait to see your masterpieces!