If you have tried some of my other projects, you know that I like to create making notes as I go. I usually include a lot of photos and instructions. If you are interested in the creation of the project itself, follow along from Step 2 to Step 8. If you are just interested in the assembly, download the file and use Step 9 and 10. The last step is just a Final Thoughts.

These instructions are also assuming you are familiar with XCS 2.0 as it was a project built entirely in that program. When I state in my instructions that I move things aside, I usually do all of my build in a single canvas so I am constantly moving things on and off the canvas and will put those “aside” things outside of the canvas area so I don't get lost in the jumble of parts. I will adjust and move them to additional canvases later if needed. 

During the creation of this project, I refer to each piece as a “plate”. “Side Plate”, “Front Plate”, etc…

To create this display, I know I needed a 3" wide space for each patch. I have 5 patches so that equated to 15". I also know that I will need 4 dividers and 2 end pieces with each being 1/8" in thickness. So that equals 15 3/4" or 15.75". I created a rectangle 15.75" in length. Since I did not want to cover the patch but leave about half of the patch exposed, I made the height 1.5". Copy and paste this to the side twice for later use. (see photo)   

I then create another rectangle 1" tall and .125" (1/8") wide. I color this red to distinguish easier from other parts. I copy and paste one of these to the side. this will be my tab cutout going forward and so having that copy will ensure that I have the exact size the same every time.

I then line one of the tab cutouts against the left side of the 15" rectangle, centering it using the snap feature. (see photo) I select that red rectangle and open Grid Array. I change it to one row and six columns. I space the columns by 3". This should line up the right box to the exact right side of the longer rectangle and give you six tab openings in total. (see photo) Select both the red boxes and the longer rectangle and under the Combine function, select Subtract (see photo) This will remove the the red boxes and leave holes for your tabs later. Copy and paste one of the new rectangles with the cutouts to one side twice (see photo).
 

To create the back, take the 4 copies, the two with the cutouts and the 2 without, and line them up with the one of the cutouts on the top and bottom. (See photo). To make it easier, use the horizontal align center option under design once you have them in the correct order. It will line the edges up accurately. Select one of the two center pieces and bring them together where the top of one just barely overlaps the bottom of the other. (see photo) Select both and then the Unite function under Combine. Take this new rectangle and repeat it with the two rectangles that have the cutouts, with one on the top and one on the bottom. If done correctly, you should have a rectangle that is approximately 15.75" x 5.98" Create a new rectangle that covers the center cutouts at the top and then Unite the two. This will get rid of the open tab holes at the top since we do not need them but leaves the tab cutouts at either side. (See photo)
Now I take a copy of the small red rectangle from earlier and turn it 90 degrees so it is laying sideways. (Make sure to leave a copy for use later) Center align the front and back plate so that they are one above the other. I take the sideways rectangle and place it along the bottom of the Front Plate about the center of the left hand side (see photo) I select that red rectangle and grid array it with one row and five columns spaced 2.15" apart (see photo). Then I copy and paste those onto the upper rectangle using snap to make sure they align with the front plate (see photo) Then select the red rectangles and the piece they are associated with and subtract. You should end up with two pieces that look like the photo shown with cutouts along each side and the bottom.
 

To start with the creation of the sides, we have start with a rectangle the exact height of the back plate. Our back plate here is 5.988" tall. I also know that I want this stand to have display parts that are about 3" deep. So we will make our rectangle 3" wide and 5.988" tall. (see photo) take a copy of the red smaller rectangle (again, leaving a copy for later use) and widen it to where it is .127"x1" instead of the .125"x1". Create 3 copies of this. Line your 3x5.988 rectangle directly against the backplate along one side so that they are just a small distance apart but line up at the top and bottom perfectly. (See photo) I then placed one of the small red rectangles in the cutouts along the side of the back plate close to the side rectangle. Make sure that the lines of the red rectangle do not overlap but just barely touch the top, bottom and side. If you need to, adjust the height slightly but leave the width alone at .127".(See photo) Once you have a red rectangle in both spaces, select the 3"x5.988" rectange and move it so it just barely comes against the side of the back plate but still stays lined at top and bottom. This will over lap the red rectangles with it. (see photo) Move the back plate away and then select the altogether the red rectangles and the side plate. Unite them. We should now have a rectangle with two tabs along one side. (See photo) Select this new rectangle and flip it so the tabs are aligned on the left. Use the reflect feature under design. To create the front tab, I am going to do the same as with the back plate but use the front plate instead. Line them up so the bottom of both rectangles are aligned exactly. (Little hint: select both and use the align bottom under design. Move the side plate to just beside the front plate. Line a red rectangle as with the back plate, making sure that it does not overlap the cutout on the front plate. (see photo) Once satisfied, move the side plate to where it barely touches the front plate but slightly overlaps the red rectangle. Then move the front plate away, select both the side plate and red rectangle and unite them. You should now have a tab on the right side and two tabs on the left of the side plate. Next take a copy of the original red rectangle (still yet again, keeping a copy for later use) and turn it 90 degrees so it is laying on its side. Select the side panel and this red rectangle and use the align function under design to horizontally center it and then bottom center it. You should have a panel like in the photo. Select both and subtract. This leaves you with a side panel with two tabs on the left, one on the right, and a cutout at the bottom. (see photo) 
For the final part of making the side panel angled, I start with a rectangle that is the exact height of the front panel. I color it yellow just to be able to use it as a guide and not confuse it with other pieces. I overlap this and line it up with the base of the side panel. This is just a measuring tool and will be deleted later that is why I made it wider than the side panel. (see photo) I then create a new rectangle and make it large. I overlap the side panel and turn this to where it is touching the intersection of the yellow triangle and angles up to touch near or at the left point of the top of the side panel. (See photo) I select both the red rectangle and side panel and then subtract it. I then remove the yellow rectangle as it is no longer needed. You should then have an angled side panel. I copy and paste it, flip one horizontally, and so end up with two side panels. (See photo)
 

NOTE: The photos shown have the base plate equaling the length of the front plate (15.75"). However, is should equal the length in the notes below (15.5") which will actually make is slightly smaller on the left and right. Please follow the notes if you are creating this from scratch. The photos are just to refer to the parts and placements in certain steps

For the base plate, I know that it will be the exact length of the front plate and 3 inches in depth. So I create a rectangle this size then reduce its length by 1/4" since I will be adding tabs on which will make it the exact length of the front plate. The size of this rectangle is 15.5" wide and 3" hight. I then horizontally align the front plate and the new rectangle (the base plate) bringing them very close to one another (see photo -refer to the note about size of base plate) I take one of the small red rectangles (again keeping a copy for later) making it .127" wide and turn it on its side. I line it up (as done in step 3 with the side plate) where it just barely touches the cutout of the left bottom of the front plate. (see photo) Then I create 4 copies of this and place them the same as the first within the other cutouts along the bottom. (See photo) Unfortunately, due to the cutouts being the way they are, we cannot do grid array for this. You can to get them to the basic location, but you will still have to adjust each one just slightly. Once they are in place select all of them and copy them to the side. Group them just to keep them the same distance apart. Move the base plate to where it barely comes to the edge of the front plate, overlapping the red rectangles slightly. Make sure the edges on either side stay lined up. (see photo) Move away the front plate and then select the overlapped red rectangles and the base plate and unite them. Done correctly, there will be a rectangle with 5 tabs along the top. (see photo) Vertically flip this so the tabs face the bottom and then move the back plate into the same position that the front plate was in, just slightly above the base plate. (see photo) Take the five grouped red rectangles from earlier in this step and align them as was done for the front plate. Make sure they just barely touch the sides and the top of the cut out tabs (see photo) Just as with the front panel, I move the base plate to where it barely touches the back plate but overlaps the red rectangles slightly, keeping the sides exactly aligned. Then I move the back plate away and select the base plate and red rectangles and unite them. I now have a base plate with 5 tabs on the bottom and the top. (see photo) To create the side tabs, I follow the same steps with a slight twist. I have to remember which part of the base plate is the back so I write in the word back along the top of the base plate and group it so I dont lose it. I change the color to black and then change it so it will not output when this part is cut. (see photo) I take each of the side plates and turn them 90 degrees, lining the long part up with the side labeled "back" on the base plate. I bring them close to the sides of the base plate. (See photo) Then I take another of the small red rectangles (almost done with these, but still keep a copy to the side) and, just as with the front and back plates, change the width to .127" and put them inside the cutouts on both side panels where they just barely touch the edges of the cutouts. Remember, if needed, you can adjust the height but leave the width at .127". (See photo) For the next step, I first move the base plate to one side to overlap a red rectangle slightly and almost touch one of the side panels. I also make sure that the top stays aligned. (See photo) I then move the side panel away then select and unite the red rectangle and the base plate. This will give me a base plate with a tab on one side. (see photo) Note: The word "back" will disappear unless you ungroup. I want to keep that word there so for the time being, I ungrouped but will regroup it when done with this step. I then do the exact same with the other side so once complete, my base plate will have a protruding tab on either side and five on top and bottom. (see photo) I then move the base plate to the side and proceed to the final piece in the next step.
 

I need 4 dividers, but since each will be the same, I am just creating one. First, I know my front plate is 1.5" high and that the base plate will allow me to have a 3" depth. So I create a rectangle that size. I will then line up the front plate and this rectangle (the diver plate) by setting then side by side and selecting Align Bottom under Design. I then move them very close together. (See photo) I then take the red rectangle and widen it to .127". I make a total of 3 copies. This will be the last three of these I use so I don't worry about keeping a copy. I move one of these to where it sits long ways and widen it to 4". So the size should be .127" Height and 4" Width. (see photo) I put that aside for a few moments. I take one of the 1" x .127" red rectangles and line it with the notch in the side of the front panel, again, barely touching the edges. Keep the width the same but you can adjust the height slightly if needed. (see photo) I then move the divider plate to where it barely touches the front plate and slightly overlaps the red rectangle. Remeber, the top and bottom of both the divider and front panels should line up exactly.Once done, I move the front plate away, select the divider panel and the red rectangle and unite them. This gives me a diver panel with one tab on the right side. (see photo) I then do the exact same with the other side but use the back panel for this. Line up the back panel along the right side, place the other red 1" rectangle, move the divider panel to where it overlaps the red rectangle and barely touches the back panel, move the back panel away and then unite the red rectangle and the divider panel. This gives me a divider panel with a tab on either side. (see photo)  To complete the divider panel, I have to allow for the thickness of the base plate. Take the 4" red rectangle and line it up over the bottom of the divider panel. It should extend to either side of the divider panel. (See photo) Select both the panel and the rectangle and subtract. I am left with a finished panel that is short on the bottom with a tab on either side. (see photo) I select this and do a grid array and hit ok. This gives me 4 identical divider tabs. (see photo) I then align all my pieces up to the best way to cut to use the least wood. While one may be tempted to flip one of the sides to use less wood, do not. Keep them as the are to prevent issues in assembly. I end up with two canvases. (See photos)
 

In the last step, I had a photo that showed my canvases and by following the steps, you may have noticed an additional rectangle that had no tabs on canvas two and had words on it. I like to change things depending on the event. Since my front piece will tell my customers my pricing, I create a separate rectangle that can have velcro placed on the back which allows me to remove it and place a new one with different pricing/wording.  I create a separate rectangle 1.75" high and 15.75" long. I usually put what the product is and pricing on this. (See photo) For this project, however, I am just putting what the product is. I also made this 1.75" so that I can have the entire display lean ever so slightly back, using the additional .25" I included as support leg for the front. Too much lean and it will fall over. However, if I did not want it to lean, I can just attach it to the front, lining the bottom of the display with the bottom of the front plate which will allow for it to stand straight. 
 

This is set up on two canvases. Each was a board 12"x19". Depending on the board you use, you may need to adjust the setup accordingly. 

Thank goodness for the camera of the P2. It helps placement of parts immensely.

Before I do anything else, I lay out my pieces to ensure that all is there.(See photo) I start with the dividers and the back plate. I put a strip of glue along both sides of one of the tabs. (See photo) I like to use Starbond Thick adhesive since it tends to provide a little work time and fill in gaps if needed but will still dry fast. Using the precision tip also allows for fine line glueing. Make sure the tab goes in correctly with the shorter cut being towards the bottom of the back plate. After all the dividers are in place (see photo) I then move to the side plates. Be sure the line the long side of the side plate to the edge of the back plate. (See photo) Put a strip of glue along the top side of the tab on the back plate and then lift and snap in the side plate. Once you have it in place, hold it for a few seconds to allow the glue to start to set up and then run a strip of glue where the two pieces join. (see photo) I use my finger to press the glue in but if you do not want to get glue on your fingers, use a silicone brush. Once dried the glue can be peeled of the silicone. After you have done this to both side plates you should have the four dividers in place and the side plates as seen it the photo.

Next I put a strip of glue along the top tab of each side plate on the inside and along the top tab of each divider on both sides. (Hint: Starbond is made to be a gap filler so will dribble slightly. If you place the glue on the top corners of the tabs, it will still dribble but not as bad unless you overload the amount of glue.) Working quickly, I put on the front plate, snapping in first the left side plate tab and working my to the right, locking in each of the divider tabs and then finally the tab of the right side plate. Once done, I wipe any excess glue using my finger (or, if you prefer, a silicone brush) over the tabs points to help seal them in. (see photo)

The third part of assembly is the base plate. This step is fairly straight forward. Line up the bottom plate with the opening at the bottom of what has been assembled so far. Put a strip of glue along each of the tabs on just one side. Snap the tabs into the bottom and again, wipe any glue into where the tabs join. (See photo)

Finally, once the project has had a few minutes to set up, I run a thin bead of glue along the edges of where the bottom plate joins the rest of the project, using my finger to push the glue into the joints.(See photo)

Since I did a front plate cover with words, I attach 4 pieces of 1" velcro to the back and then attach it to the front plate. This lifted the front very slightly and allowed it to tilt. (See photo)

Then, using my F1, I engrave one of each color of the leather patches and adhere them to the back. I fill each of the slots with the appropriate patch and now my display is ready. (See photo)

HINT: Since customers can sometimes pick up an item and place it back into the wrong place, I went through and put a sticker on the back of each patch that told me which patch it was. For example, I put a sticker that said “Black/Silver” on the back of the black patch that engraved silver. 

I enjoyed making this and was thrilled it went together without having to recut or change parameters to get just right. 

If I were to do this again for another display, I may make the sides more of a triangular shape in the back to provide a more stable setup. A good wind could probably blow this over. That was one of the reasons I wanted to tilt it back slightly. Thus the creation of the front cover board - a bit larger so that it could hike up the entire display and give it that tilt.

I recommend using a silicone brush when “pressing in the glue” into the crevices of the tabs. I don't mind glue on my fingers at all, but superglue can build up quick and is difficult to get off your fingers, usually flaking off over a few hours unless you scrub…hard.

As always, thanks for joining me on this and Happy Crafting!